French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent introduced innovative and highly coveted dress designs in the 1960s while at the same time challenging sexist stereotypes about which members of society could wear tuxedos. Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel reimagined traditionally masculine garments for feminine shapes, and her elegant evening dresses and gowns promoted comfort and grace in women’s wear that had been dominated in the previous century by layers of fabric. Forward-thinking designers have responded to this history. In the 16th century, dresses and gowns were so important that England's Queen Elizabeth I defined rules about what dresses women could wear - guidance included long skirts and fitted bodices. Fashion is a powerful means of self-expression, and sophisticated vintage evening dresses and gowns by our favorite courtier play no small role in making us feel wonderful but, perhaps more importantly, making us feel like ourselves.Įvening dresses over time have conveyed specific statements about social class, position and beliefs. Similarly, we are not born with the knowledge that red can symbolize fisting.With entire museum exhibitions dedicated to examining fashion designers and their creations, we’re finally recognizing that costuming is art. For example, we are not born with the knowledge that Gucci is a high-end brand. It is a counterpart of instincts where we are born knowing certain information. Symbolic Interaction is defined by applying meaning and value to people, places or things. The Hanky Code is a prime example of a theory in sociology called Symbolic Interaction (SI). It is not uncommon to have harnesses, singlets, or leather articles in a color derived from the hanky code to indicate a desirable fetish or sexual interest. The color system has also expanded beyond hankies to other accessories. With the advent of the internet, people were better able to connect and explore, express and discover new or existing fetishes. The hanky code expanded to encompass these fetishes, communicating interests through new colors and even new fabrics, such as leather or lace. From the 1980s onward, the hanky code has expanded to a broader spectrum of colors and materials than originally conceived. The hanky code became an established way of identifying, at a glance, compatibility and interest. Initially the colors were limited to black, blue, yellow, red and white, which were the colors that most handkerchief companies produced. Late-20th Centuryĭuring the 1960s and 1970s, gay men wore hankies not only to signify their roles, but also their sexual preferences and fetishes. In either case, the use of placement and color to communicate roles and preferences form the basic aspects of the hanky code that is known today. Additionally, the follow may have worn a handkerchief on the right, or a red handkerchief. Sources differ on whether the lead wore a handkerchief on the left, or a blue handkerchief. A shortage of female dance partners meant men danced together, using hankies to indicate their role as lead or follow. Hankies were worn tied around the arm, tucked into the belt or the back pocket. The hanky code is thought to have originated with gold rush settlers in San Francisco in the mid-19th century. Placing a hanky in the left pocket indicates the wearer’s alignment with a top/dominant role, while a hanky in the right pocket indicates the wearer’s alignment with a bottom/submissive role. The hanky code is a color-coded system in which an individual wears a specific colored handkerchief in their back pocket(s) to inform others of their sexual interests and roles. The Hanky Code is a longstanding tradition and means of communication within the LGBT community.
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